Cinque Terre: checking off the last two

One thing about traveling for a long time, sometimes shit just needs to get done.  Your eyebrows don't stop growing in just because you're in Italy.  (God I wish they would.)  Sometimes you need to postpone your day of incredible sightseeing, pasta, and wine and spend a little time washing out your socks.  Emails need to be answered, blog posts need to be written, toenails need to be clipped.  So this morning in Manarola, I did sink laundry, wherein I noticed that my black t-shirt had acquired three holes in one armpit.  This meant that all three of my t-shirts now officially had small holes in them.  I pulled out the mending kit and spent an hour sewing up a total of 13 holes in three shirts.

Then it was time for lunch and a train to Vernazza.  In Vernazza, I asked at a coffee bar where to get the trail to Monterosso.  The woman told me, but once again, also made sure I knew it was closed.  Whatevs.  Found the trail no problem, and it started with what felt like 50 stories worth of stairs.  Hooray.  I met a group of hikers who had come down from Monterosso; they snapped my picture and assured me there were no landslides waiting for me on this trail.

Vernazza over my shoulder.

I found this hike much easier than the one from Corniglia.  But once again, my freaking Achilles tendons were soon putting me in a world of suck.  Another rest, more advil.  I hung out for a while next to a little waterfall. Looked out at this:

And very soon I was looking out over Monterosso, the largest of the five villages.

Monterosso

The plan was to check out the town and then take the train all the way down to Riomaggiore and have dinner there, so I'd get to get the feel of all five villages.  Monterosso is much larger than its four siblings -- I actually had to ask where the train station was!  I came across a cute little cafe with tables overlooking the beach, and on the spur of the moment decided to get an early dinner here instead.  More pizza and beer!  At least there was no septic construction this time.

I walked on the beach for a little while.  I have found it odd that so many beaches along the Mediterranean are so utterly devoid of shells.  In Cinque Terre I didn't find even the barest trace of a shell.  Eve tells me it has something to do with currents and not that the Med is a dead sea.  I hope that's so because otherwise, what the hell?

Got the train to Riomaggiore (thankfully each train ride is only 2 euros!), and got there just as the sun was setting.

Riomaggiore's tiny picturesque port.

Jetty at sunset

I wanted to walk more around the town, but suddenly I was just beat.  I was freaking tired.  And I looked up at this adorable town just full of stairs and hills, and said "Hell with THAT."

Instead I followed a trail around the coast for a little while, found a secluded rock beach that must have been the bomb in summer, and got a glass of wine while I waited for the next train home.  It would only be a 20-minute walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola, but of course, the closed trail meant another 2 euro ride.  Small altercation with the bartender as her attempted to charge me an extra euro for my wine.  I really hate that shit.

Considered getting a late dinner/snack in Manarola, but my pizza from before was holding me, and seriously I was ready for bed.  So it ended up being an early night.  Took one of those redic fucking token showers.  (Seriously, the hostel can kiss my ass on that one.)  And got ready for the next phase, on to Genova.

I loved Cinque Terre.  It was wonderful to get out of the city vibe for a few days, to get in some real hiking, to see the incredible Italian coast.  One thing I considered but finally vetoed due to funds was a boat trip to Portofino, a place I have always wanted to see.  If I'd had another day in Cinque Terre I probably would have ponied up, but as it is it will just have to be one of those things I save for next time.

Ciao, Cinque Terre.  You are definitely one place I wouldn't mind coming back to.  Just get your shit cleaned up.  And for the love of God get me a better hostel option.

One of my favorite shots, taken in Vernazza