Whoosh.

Well.  I assure you I have not dropped off the face of the planet, have not been kidnapped, and have not contracted my 57th Horrible Georgian Illness That Can Only Be "Cured" With Questionable Meds From Russia.  That last is a true miracle, but what I HAVE been doing is plowing right on with my busybusy work schedule, while at the the same time having a whole lot of fun with my hetero-sexual lifemate, who sadly took her leave of Georgia this past Monday night.  It's been quite a ride.  I can't believe that Chris's month in Georgia is over already, and that I now have less than a month before I take my temporary leave of this crazy, beloved borrowed homeland of mine.

What have Chris and I been up to since our triumphant return from Armenia, you ask?

We have had several excellent dinners, true American bar food style, at The Hangar.  I adore this place, and can't believe I waited this long to seek it out.  They have the best bacon in Tbilisi, and this includes Elvis Cafe, Betsy's Hotel, and the Tbilisi Marriott in the consideration.  The staff is awesome, especially the owner, Rebecca.  Sometimes they show hockey here!!  I'm hoping to catch a playoff game or two even though -- once again -- my Caps have broken my heart for another season.  This place is also quite the popular hangout for non-TLG expats, and I've managed to meet a couple of extremely cool folks here.

Beer and shenanigans at The Hangar

Speaking of hubs for non-TLG expats, we have also been spending quite a lot of time at Betsy's.  Seriously, if you have not been to their Friday night happy hour, I don't know what the hell is wrong with you, but get your butt up there this Friday.  Half price drinks and free food from 6 till 8!  Vako and Zurab will be behind the bar, and two friendlier Georgian bartenders you will not find anywhere -- especially not in Georgia!  Besides the happy hour, Besty's also hosts Trivia Nights about every three weeks or so, and Chris and I made it to one a couple weeks ago.  Very fun, but man some of these players can get pretty damn competitive over this thing!  Needless to say, my team did not win, but I was able to contribute at least a couple answers which made me feel slightly less than useless.  On Trivia Night and Friday Happy Hour, it can get pretty loud and crowded at Betsy's bar, but I've also stopped by for some drinks with the regulars on nights that aren't those, and then Betsy's is a lovely, quiet, chill oasis where you'll almost be guaranteed to meet some interesting people traveling from afar.  Last night it was two Swedes in addition to the awesome triumvirate of British men that can often be found a the bar and are swiftly becoming my very good friends -- a Welshman, a Scot, and an Englishman.  More pleasant drinking companions could not be found.

Half-price beer and happy hour offerings at my very favorite Tbilisi bar!

So, Chris and I did kind of fail on most of our plans to get out of Tbilisi on the weekends (except for a fantastic trip to Gori, which is a forthcoming second post all its own).  But this meant we had plenty of time to explore Tbilisi.  We did a Museum Day and visited the National Museum and the National Gallery.  We ate plenty of mtsvadi, khachapuri, salati, kinkhali, and kartopeli, Georgian-family style and washed down with Natakhtari.  Chris took a room at Betsy's for a few nights, and so we had an impromptu sleepover one night following happy hour and enjoyed their superb breakfast buffet the next morning.  We took a walk up to Narikala Fortress and to the Botanical Gardens.

Narikala Fortress from the entrance to the Botanical Gardens.

Just as beautiful as when I was here this time last year!

We saw a Georgian ballet at the Philharmonic.

We met awesome Austrian mountain climbers at a German beer garden on Chardin.

We commiserated on the sad state of certain Georgian "toilets."  (Nicknamed: "The Noisome Holes.)

See that brown spot just to the left?  That's poop

We found an amazing wine shop on Rustaveli, simply called Georgian Wine.  They offer tastings free of charge, and also make their own red and white in addition to a very complete bottle selection.  But the best thing is the coolest little bar/tasting room in the back of their shop.  You can get a bottle; or you can get a litre of either their white or their red, which is a sweet chilled red called Kindzmaruli, for seven lari.  We chose their Kindzmaruli, which came in a lovely glass decanter, and ordered their nuts and cheese plate, which is the only food they offer.  Seven lari for a litre of damn good wine is a pretty sweet deal, so I can recommend these folks wholeheartedly.  As the Georgian summer begins to kick in full force, I have a feeling that this cool, quiet cellar bar with their chilled wine, excellent staff and hotel-quality bathroom, is going to be just the ticket on a dog-day afternoon.

We spent an incredible day with my host parents, Badri and Marina.  They took us up to their country home for the afternoon, and drove us to visit Gvtaeba Monastery.  Completely off the beaten path, and so one of those things I never would have gotten to see on my own.

Amazing views, ancient history... just another day in Georgia.

Then they took us back to the house and Badri had us shoot his BB gun and plant some trees.

We did not hit the (very small!) target.  Badri was disappointed.

It was really important that we do this.  Both Chris and I got a soon-to-be tree to put in the ground

Then we grilled up some Mtsvadi.  We had the best little supra in their front yard, just the four of us.  The food was of course delicious -- and we got to eat with our hands which just makes everything that much more fun.

We make fire...

Chris and I with our own personal quail mtsvadi.  Freaking good.

Chris and I said our sad farewells at Elvis Cafe on Monday night.  There was talk of one last Georgian feast, but Chris was worried (quite understandably) about what said food might do to her insides during her upcoming lengthy travels.  So we played it safe with hot dogs and hamburgers.  And one incredible dessert!

It was simply wonderful to have my friend here for almost five weeks!  I cannot believe how fast the time went by.  Thank goodness for photos so I have even a hope of remembering everything!  I'm so happy that someone from back home actually got to see something of what I've been talking about for a year.  And I'm so, SO happy that she loved it here, that she understood why I love it and why I am coming back, despite the noisome holes, medical issues, language-barrier frustrations, and all the rest.

Also very happy that it won't be another year until we see each other again!  Chris, I'll see you in a month!  I'll bring you a Mars bar and we will Gaumarjos with our drinking horns. :)  Me meqvars shen, chemi kargi megobari.