So you know those obsessive lists and itineraries I make for myself that I'm always going on about? Well, I made one for you! I've been promising a sort of comprehensive Istanbul post, and this is it. I put together an imaginary week-long Istanbul Itinerary, complete with time estimates for how long I think each site would likely take (if you are me). Please note that all the time estimates do not include travel time to the sight or any possible lines you might have to wait in.
I know that now isn't exactly the world's best time to visit Istanbul, but the general word out seems to be that as long as you avoid Taksim, Besitas, and stupidly putting yourself in the wrong place at the wrong time, tourists should be fine. This is not an endorsement for you to come to Istanbul right now and then freaking sue me if you get arrested or teargassed. Just repeating what I have heard and read from various sources. But anyway, it's my hope and belief that these troubles won't last forever, and soon enough Istanbul will once again be its happy, crowded hustling and bustling self.
"Hello my friend, where are you from?"
One-Week Istanbul Itinerary
Day One
Might as well knock out the biggest and the best first, because that's always what I like to do. I know this looks like a LOT, but many of the items in Day One can be done justice in 20 minutes or less. Plus they are all within a five-minute walk of each other, so travel time is minimal. Trust me, if you get an early start it is very doable to see all of this in one day.
Hagia Sophia (30 minutes to an hour, depending on your level of interest)
Important Note: It is pronounced AYA SOFIA. Please don't be a philistine.
Line here can get impressive, so try to come early. If that doesn't work, circle back around near the end of the day; you might have better luck then. Just make sure you're aware of the last entrance time.
Sultanahmet Park (15 to 20 minutes)
Walk from the Hagia Sophia down through the park to get to the Blue Mosque. If you're so inspired, get a Turkish ice cream and sit for a few minutes on one of the many wooden benches, drinking in the truly breathtaking scene all around you.
Blue Mosque (20 minutes)
The line here can be demoralizing but it moves quickly. Try to make sure you don't arrive during prayer time; the mosque will be closed. If your timing is bad, do some of the remaining things first and then try again. Also -- wear pants or a long skirt, and a shirt that covers your shoulders. Dudes, this includes you as well. Women, bring a scarf (obvs).
Hippodrome (5 minutes)
Quick photo op of the obelisk and various columns. There's not much else to see here.
Arasta Bazaar (10 minutes to over an hour, depending on your lust for shopping and haggling)
This is a simply lovely pedestrian street lined with shops. The vendors here have all agreed to not harass people as they browse. It's like a little oasis of quiet, calm, respectful heaven. I love it. Plus, the prices here are much better than at the Grand Bazaar, where I don't recommend you buy anything unless you are a masochist.
Mosaic Museum (15-20 minutes)
Located right within the Arasta Bazaar. Quite small but does have some really intersting mosaics inside. Since it is right here and isn't expensive, it's definitely worth a quick spin.
Basilica Cistern (30 minutes)
Don't miss this one. Sultahamet's hidden gem, as far as I'm concerned. And it would seriously be a very welcome respite from Istanbul's summer heat.
Dinner in Sultanahmet
Self-explanatory. :) The prices here can be high, but the staff are almost guaranteed to be friendly and to speak English. Perfect after a very full first day in Istanbul. Find a little mehane where you can sit on floor cushions and order manti or iskender, Turkish specialties and my personal faves. Make sure you ask before sitting down if they serve alcohol (if that matters to you) as some places won't, even in the tourist center.
Drinks on a roof terrace overlooking the Blue Mosque
Again, self-explanatory. But the view is not to be missed.
Day Two
Archaeology Museum (2 to 2.5 hours)
Three separate buildings. My favorite was the Museum of the Ancient Orient, but my friend enjoyed the Tiled Kiosk the best. Take your time and don't rush through; there's a lot to see here. Maybe take a break in the very pleasant courtyard cafe if you're so inclined.
Topkapi Palace (3 hours)
This is another place where you really just need to take your time. It's a huge site and there's a ton to see. Do not skip the harem, even with the cost of the extra ticket. Make sure you have plenty of space on your camera's memory card.
Tea in Gulhane Park overlooking the Bosphorus (30 to 45 minutes)
Reward yourself after a long day of lines and dusty artifacts with a pot of Turkish tea in this very pleasant park just outside the Topkapi Palace grounds. If you walk all the way through the park, you'll find the tea gardens with views overlooking the Bosphorus.
Night Out in Contemporary Istanbul
Take the tram and funicular up to Taksim for dinner and a late night out. There are about a million options, and your hardest task will be finding somewhere that isn't crowded and terribly noisy. Unless of course your vacation happens to fall during a time of major social unrest, like now, and in that case, I advise that you stay as far away from Taksim and Istiklal street as you possibly can. There seriously is not a lot to see here anyway, unless you are jonesing for a mall.
If Taksim isn't an option, have dinner on the Galata Bridge instead. If you time it right, you'll get a spectacular sunset behind the Suleymaniye Mosque.
Day Three
Suleymaniye Mosque (15 minutes)
Everything I wrote about the Blue Mosque also applies here, except bit about the line.
Grand Bazaar (20 minutes to ???)
I really did not like it here, not even a little bit. It's crowded, the vendors are abrasive, it's a hotspot for pickpockets, and the prices suck. Go to experience the atmosphere and so you can say you've been, but I strongly counsel against buying anything here. You can find better prices and a more pleasant experience almost anywhere else.
Spice Bazaar (10 minutes to ???)
See above regarding the Grand Bazaar.
Whirling Dervish Show
Even though it's a big touristy gimmick, you just have to see a Whirling Dervish show while you're here. There are lots of options but they're all pretty much the same. Your main choice is whether or not to eat before (likely cheaper) or to get your dinner at the show.
Day Four
Cross the Galata Bridge (10 minutes)
Obviously you can do this by tram, but it's fun to walk. Up top are the solid lines of fishermen, down on the second level are the scores of restaurants with agressive hosts beconing you in. Ignore them. You're off to have something far superior.
Get a fish sandwich (30 minutes)
Just on the other side of the Galata, there is a bustling fish market that will doubtless provide some interesting photos to show people back home. On the other side of the market is a small park. You can get sit-down service here, but I highly recommend getting a fish sandwich from one of the many cart vendors. He'll cook it in front of you, wrap it in paper and then you can find a little plastic bench overlooking the Golden Horn. Note that if you do sit down, you'll need to order a tea or soda, but that's okay as you needed something with your sandwich anyway.
Galata Tower (15 minutes)
Don't bother going up if the line is huge, but the views are nice.
Istanbul Modern (1 to 1.5 hours)
Need a break from Ottoman splendor, crowds, and noise? Istanbul Modern is a welcome and much-needed respite. I enjoyed the installations, although there was rather a superfluity of videos, most of which dealt with sexuality and the repression of women in traditional Muslim culture. If you don't mind a (significant) splurge, their cafe overlooking the Bosphorus is excellent.
Evening in Asia
From Karakoy, take a late afternoon ferry to Kadikoy. Explore the market before settling on one of the many restaurant options for dinner. After dinner, walk up to Kadife Street and check out the thriving bar scene, maybe catch some live music. The atmosphere here is very young and carefree compared to across the water, and there is a thriving expat population. Make sure you don't miss the last ferry back to Europe or it will be quite the expensive cab ride.
Day Five
Dolmabahce Palace (2 hours)
Now, I myself have not seen this (yet), so I can't personally vouch for it. But enough people and guidebooks have given it the thumbs-up that I'm confident it'd be worth your time. Tickets are pricey though.
Take a Bosphorus Cruise (2 to 6+ hours)
I almost didn't include this here, but it really is an Istanbul must-do. I've only done the short, 90-minute cruise, and while fun, I'm not sure you really see enough to make it worthwhile. Still, it's not expensive and the scenery is beautiful. There is also a much longer cruise you can do, which allows you to get off at various points and apparently makes it all the way up into the Black Sea. If you have time and funds, this may be the better option.
Visit a Hamam (2 hours)
You just have to. Wear your undies but no bra. Tie up your hair (don't leave it down, they don't like it.) Bring a bottle of water in with you, and surrender to the experience!
Choose-Your-Own-Adventure for Dinner
Okay, I'm kind of running out of specific recommendations for your evenings. I'm sure you can figure this one out by yourself. Although seriously, you need to get either manti or iskender if you haven't had both of them already!
Day Six
Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum (1 hour)
This is currently closed for the duration due to renovations, so it's the second thing on my itinerary that I haven't actually seen. But I certainly would not miss it if I had the option.
Chora Church (30 minutes)
The most time-consuming thing about this site will be getting here. It's definitely off the beaten path, but worth a look. Incidentally, it will give you a chance to see what the rest of Istanbul looks like that isn't the tourist center.
City walls (1 hour)
Right near the Chora Church are the remains of the old city wall, back when Istanbul was still Constantinople. It's a lot of fun to climb and romp around them, just be careful. There aren't many safety features and it is completely possible to take a fall and hurt yourself badly. Also, drunks have decided this is their turf, for some reason. I wouldn't recommend going alone. But it really is fun and worth it, I promise!
Indian for Dinner
If you need a break from Turkish food, I can highly recommend the Swaad Indian Restaurant just off of the Cemberlitas tram stop (which you'll go right through on your way back from the Walls!). Again, pricey but the food is perfect.
Day Seven
Visit the Prince's Islands (whole day)
You can get the ferry from Karakoy again, or go from Eminonu to Kadikoy and get it there. There are four islands in the chain, I've personally set foot on Helbeliada and Buyukada. It's a nice respite away from the city; if you do decide to do this it might make sense to move it up to Day Four or Five to give yourself a break. I listed it last because honestly I think you could give the islands a miss if it's a choice between Prince's Islands or something else. But you can rent bikes on the island, take a carraige ride, hike up to a monastery, visit some (probably dirty) beaches, or just grab a picnic over a view of the Marmara. Doesn't sound too bad. Make sure you know the ferry times so you don't get stranded or miss seeing an island you wanted to check out. There's also no shortage of shops or restaurant options.
Whew. There you have it. I'm pretty sure this covers almost everything, although as always there is doubtless some important stuff that I missed. But I know if this was my Istanbul adventure, I'd be going home pretty damn happy with how my week went.
Enjoy your travels -- and as always -- stay smart and stay safe!
I know that now isn't exactly the world's best time to visit Istanbul, but the general word out seems to be that as long as you avoid Taksim, Besitas, and stupidly putting yourself in the wrong place at the wrong time, tourists should be fine. This is not an endorsement for you to come to Istanbul right now and then freaking sue me if you get arrested or teargassed. Just repeating what I have heard and read from various sources. But anyway, it's my hope and belief that these troubles won't last forever, and soon enough Istanbul will once again be its happy, crowded hustling and bustling self.
"Hello my friend, where are you from?"
One-Week Istanbul Itinerary
Day One
Might as well knock out the biggest and the best first, because that's always what I like to do. I know this looks like a LOT, but many of the items in Day One can be done justice in 20 minutes or less. Plus they are all within a five-minute walk of each other, so travel time is minimal. Trust me, if you get an early start it is very doable to see all of this in one day.
Hagia Sophia (30 minutes to an hour, depending on your level of interest)
Important Note: It is pronounced AYA SOFIA. Please don't be a philistine.
Line here can get impressive, so try to come early. If that doesn't work, circle back around near the end of the day; you might have better luck then. Just make sure you're aware of the last entrance time.
Sultanahmet Park (15 to 20 minutes)
Walk from the Hagia Sophia down through the park to get to the Blue Mosque. If you're so inspired, get a Turkish ice cream and sit for a few minutes on one of the many wooden benches, drinking in the truly breathtaking scene all around you.
Blue Mosque (20 minutes)
The line here can be demoralizing but it moves quickly. Try to make sure you don't arrive during prayer time; the mosque will be closed. If your timing is bad, do some of the remaining things first and then try again. Also -- wear pants or a long skirt, and a shirt that covers your shoulders. Dudes, this includes you as well. Women, bring a scarf (obvs).
Hippodrome (5 minutes)
Quick photo op of the obelisk and various columns. There's not much else to see here.
Arasta Bazaar (10 minutes to over an hour, depending on your lust for shopping and haggling)
This is a simply lovely pedestrian street lined with shops. The vendors here have all agreed to not harass people as they browse. It's like a little oasis of quiet, calm, respectful heaven. I love it. Plus, the prices here are much better than at the Grand Bazaar, where I don't recommend you buy anything unless you are a masochist.
Mosaic Museum (15-20 minutes)
Located right within the Arasta Bazaar. Quite small but does have some really intersting mosaics inside. Since it is right here and isn't expensive, it's definitely worth a quick spin.
Basilica Cistern (30 minutes)
Don't miss this one. Sultahamet's hidden gem, as far as I'm concerned. And it would seriously be a very welcome respite from Istanbul's summer heat.
Dinner in Sultanahmet
Self-explanatory. :) The prices here can be high, but the staff are almost guaranteed to be friendly and to speak English. Perfect after a very full first day in Istanbul. Find a little mehane where you can sit on floor cushions and order manti or iskender, Turkish specialties and my personal faves. Make sure you ask before sitting down if they serve alcohol (if that matters to you) as some places won't, even in the tourist center.
Drinks on a roof terrace overlooking the Blue Mosque
Again, self-explanatory. But the view is not to be missed.
Day Two
Archaeology Museum (2 to 2.5 hours)
Three separate buildings. My favorite was the Museum of the Ancient Orient, but my friend enjoyed the Tiled Kiosk the best. Take your time and don't rush through; there's a lot to see here. Maybe take a break in the very pleasant courtyard cafe if you're so inclined.
Topkapi Palace (3 hours)
This is another place where you really just need to take your time. It's a huge site and there's a ton to see. Do not skip the harem, even with the cost of the extra ticket. Make sure you have plenty of space on your camera's memory card.
Tea in Gulhane Park overlooking the Bosphorus (30 to 45 minutes)
Reward yourself after a long day of lines and dusty artifacts with a pot of Turkish tea in this very pleasant park just outside the Topkapi Palace grounds. If you walk all the way through the park, you'll find the tea gardens with views overlooking the Bosphorus.
Night Out in Contemporary Istanbul
Take the tram and funicular up to Taksim for dinner and a late night out. There are about a million options, and your hardest task will be finding somewhere that isn't crowded and terribly noisy. Unless of course your vacation happens to fall during a time of major social unrest, like now, and in that case, I advise that you stay as far away from Taksim and Istiklal street as you possibly can. There seriously is not a lot to see here anyway, unless you are jonesing for a mall.
If Taksim isn't an option, have dinner on the Galata Bridge instead. If you time it right, you'll get a spectacular sunset behind the Suleymaniye Mosque.
Day Three
Suleymaniye Mosque (15 minutes)
Everything I wrote about the Blue Mosque also applies here, except bit about the line.
Grand Bazaar (20 minutes to ???)
I really did not like it here, not even a little bit. It's crowded, the vendors are abrasive, it's a hotspot for pickpockets, and the prices suck. Go to experience the atmosphere and so you can say you've been, but I strongly counsel against buying anything here. You can find better prices and a more pleasant experience almost anywhere else.
Spice Bazaar (10 minutes to ???)
See above regarding the Grand Bazaar.
Whirling Dervish Show
Even though it's a big touristy gimmick, you just have to see a Whirling Dervish show while you're here. There are lots of options but they're all pretty much the same. Your main choice is whether or not to eat before (likely cheaper) or to get your dinner at the show.
Day Four
Cross the Galata Bridge (10 minutes)
Obviously you can do this by tram, but it's fun to walk. Up top are the solid lines of fishermen, down on the second level are the scores of restaurants with agressive hosts beconing you in. Ignore them. You're off to have something far superior.
Get a fish sandwich (30 minutes)
Just on the other side of the Galata, there is a bustling fish market that will doubtless provide some interesting photos to show people back home. On the other side of the market is a small park. You can get sit-down service here, but I highly recommend getting a fish sandwich from one of the many cart vendors. He'll cook it in front of you, wrap it in paper and then you can find a little plastic bench overlooking the Golden Horn. Note that if you do sit down, you'll need to order a tea or soda, but that's okay as you needed something with your sandwich anyway.
Galata Tower (15 minutes)
Don't bother going up if the line is huge, but the views are nice.
Istanbul Modern (1 to 1.5 hours)
Need a break from Ottoman splendor, crowds, and noise? Istanbul Modern is a welcome and much-needed respite. I enjoyed the installations, although there was rather a superfluity of videos, most of which dealt with sexuality and the repression of women in traditional Muslim culture. If you don't mind a (significant) splurge, their cafe overlooking the Bosphorus is excellent.
Evening in Asia
From Karakoy, take a late afternoon ferry to Kadikoy. Explore the market before settling on one of the many restaurant options for dinner. After dinner, walk up to Kadife Street and check out the thriving bar scene, maybe catch some live music. The atmosphere here is very young and carefree compared to across the water, and there is a thriving expat population. Make sure you don't miss the last ferry back to Europe or it will be quite the expensive cab ride.
Day Five
Dolmabahce Palace (2 hours)
Now, I myself have not seen this (yet), so I can't personally vouch for it. But enough people and guidebooks have given it the thumbs-up that I'm confident it'd be worth your time. Tickets are pricey though.
Take a Bosphorus Cruise (2 to 6+ hours)
I almost didn't include this here, but it really is an Istanbul must-do. I've only done the short, 90-minute cruise, and while fun, I'm not sure you really see enough to make it worthwhile. Still, it's not expensive and the scenery is beautiful. There is also a much longer cruise you can do, which allows you to get off at various points and apparently makes it all the way up into the Black Sea. If you have time and funds, this may be the better option.
Visit a Hamam (2 hours)
You just have to. Wear your undies but no bra. Tie up your hair (don't leave it down, they don't like it.) Bring a bottle of water in with you, and surrender to the experience!
Choose-Your-Own-Adventure for Dinner
Okay, I'm kind of running out of specific recommendations for your evenings. I'm sure you can figure this one out by yourself. Although seriously, you need to get either manti or iskender if you haven't had both of them already!
Day Six
Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum (1 hour)
This is currently closed for the duration due to renovations, so it's the second thing on my itinerary that I haven't actually seen. But I certainly would not miss it if I had the option.
Chora Church (30 minutes)
The most time-consuming thing about this site will be getting here. It's definitely off the beaten path, but worth a look. Incidentally, it will give you a chance to see what the rest of Istanbul looks like that isn't the tourist center.
City walls (1 hour)
Right near the Chora Church are the remains of the old city wall, back when Istanbul was still Constantinople. It's a lot of fun to climb and romp around them, just be careful. There aren't many safety features and it is completely possible to take a fall and hurt yourself badly. Also, drunks have decided this is their turf, for some reason. I wouldn't recommend going alone. But it really is fun and worth it, I promise!
Indian for Dinner
If you need a break from Turkish food, I can highly recommend the Swaad Indian Restaurant just off of the Cemberlitas tram stop (which you'll go right through on your way back from the Walls!). Again, pricey but the food is perfect.
Day Seven
Visit the Prince's Islands (whole day)
You can get the ferry from Karakoy again, or go from Eminonu to Kadikoy and get it there. There are four islands in the chain, I've personally set foot on Helbeliada and Buyukada. It's a nice respite away from the city; if you do decide to do this it might make sense to move it up to Day Four or Five to give yourself a break. I listed it last because honestly I think you could give the islands a miss if it's a choice between Prince's Islands or something else. But you can rent bikes on the island, take a carraige ride, hike up to a monastery, visit some (probably dirty) beaches, or just grab a picnic over a view of the Marmara. Doesn't sound too bad. Make sure you know the ferry times so you don't get stranded or miss seeing an island you wanted to check out. There's also no shortage of shops or restaurant options.
Whew. There you have it. I'm pretty sure this covers almost everything, although as always there is doubtless some important stuff that I missed. But I know if this was my Istanbul adventure, I'd be going home pretty damn happy with how my week went.
Enjoy your travels -- and as always -- stay smart and stay safe!
Wow, such an amazing city! So much to do and see. You really should freelance, these articles are great!
ReplyDelete