Happy Thanksgiving and surprise announcement

I don't really need to point out what an incredible roller coaster of a year this has been.  I am so very thankful to be typing this blog entry in Georgia.  I am, always and every day, thankful for my incredible family and friends who have been my rocks and shoulders my whole life, and who continue to do so from thousands of miles away.

Yesterday, Mark and I celebrated by splurging on one of Poti's nicer restaurants.  We ordered roast chicken (no turkey), mashed potatoes, mushrooms with sulguni cheese cooked in the ketsi, ceasar salad, and shared a bottle of saperavi.  Absolutely one of my best meals in Poti.

Check out the awesome edible candlelit sculpture!

I also got a wonderful surprise a couple days ago, and Mustafa came back to Poti for a few days!  So he joined Mark and I last night.  So good to see him again!

Ever the classy and mature one.

This dinner was a special event not only because it was Thanksgiving, and not only because Mustafa came to visit, but also because it was the second-to-last dinner I will probably ever eat in Poti, barring a weekend visit.

That's because I am moving to Tbilisi.  Tomorrow.

What happened to the middle of December, you ask?  Well a lot of reasons and factors contributed to my decision to leave early.  My Program called me last week with the offer to move early if I wanted.  I took a few days to think about it and ultimately agreed.

So.  All packed up, once again.  Tomorrow I leave on the noon marshutka for a very uncomfortable ride to Tbilisi, where I will meet my new host family.  Mom, Dad, two girls.  Sounds a little familiar. :)

They are placing me in the district of Saburtalo.  It's not right in the center but is still definitely city proper.  I'm looking forward to figuring out the metro and bus system.  Also looking forward to finding a part-time second job to help cover all the expenses I know I will have!

So once again, stay tuned!  The Next Phase is about to begin.

Cravings

Solitude.  It's important.  Especially if you're me.  Before I came to Georgia, time to and for myself was one of my priorities.  I would schedule "dates" with myself on a regular basis to make sure this priority was met.  Lovely dates with me and my pajamas and hockey games and meals from Whole Foods.  And should it be that some group event got scheduled on one of these planned days... well, I was busy.  I had important stuff to do.  Sitting in comfortable silence, straightening out my mind.  No bra.  Farting whenever the hell I wanted to.  And yeah, opening the champagne for mimosas at eleven fucking thirty if I damn well felt like it.  Talking to myself in full voice unashamedly.  Reading a silly novel cover-to-cover.  Back home, my friends and I called such solitary indulgences "No Pants Days".  And they were wonderful.

I realized today (while on the toilet, make of this what you will), that I have not been truly alone for well over seven months.  And its starting to wear.

Sure, I am technically "alone" right now, freezing my tukus off in my borrowed/rented bedroom.  But the good ole Georgian TV is coming through the floor as usual, and when I decide I'm a little peckish, it's not like I can go downstairs and just make myself a little something.  Up here, I always feel a little bit like I'm hiding.

In the seven months I have been here, the whole family has left the house at one time exactly once.  One afternoon, for a funeral.  And even that ended up being not true, as Nata decided she didn't want to go and spent the afternoon blasting teen pop with a friend while I hid in my bedroom, just another normal day.

Travels beyond the realm of Poti have all been group affairs.  They have all been awesome, but have not afforded much chance for alone time, either.  During my summer trip to Tbilisi, I stayed in a hostel.  No privacy there.

For the past seven+ months, it's just been people people people, all the TIME. I love ya all, but good Christ.

The night I got to spend at the InTourist Hotel in Batumi was divine, but that damn evening of solitude began at freaking midnight, and even then my roommate popped in a few times.  I certainly do not begrudge her being in her own allocated hotel room, but it means that even that superb evening cannot be counted as true cocooned-away, quality alone time.  It was not a No Pants Day.

And I need one.  I need my Reset button pressed, big time.  I am coming off the tail end of a prescribed period of convalescence following last week's digestive pyrotechnics,* and whether that has anything to do with it or not, my restlessness has kicked into overdrive.  I need to be somewhere where I can take a true breath.  Somewhere where no one can shout out my name.  And adding proper heat to this senario would be a nice touch.  Short of blowing $100 US on a hotel room, I just don't see that freaking happening.

And then, in complete polarity to what I just wrote, I also realized a few weeks ago that my life is missing something else.  And it speaks to the incredible goodness of my family and closest friends that until I left them and came to Georgia, I never even realized it could be absent.

I miss affection.  I miss basic human contact with loved ones.  Hugging my parents goodbye at the airport was the last true embrace I've had.  Sure, I hug friends here, but I think I don't need to try to hard at explaining how hugging a friend or friendly aquaintance is not the same as hugging your mother, or hugging someone whom you've known since you were 17 and who is now such a part of your life that he has become a part of your very self.

As a surprise to my own prickly self, I want a hug.  A real hug.  Solid and full-body, the whole shebang, the Real Deal.  The kind I used to get all the time.  Took for granted, even.  Luckily, I know exactly where one is waiting, and we are three weeks and counting until I get the best hug I can possibly imagine.

If you think this post sounds a little like I'm whining, I probably would not disagree with you.



* Name the movie reference!!

Autumn in Poti

Winter weather has definitely set in here. My host family, like most Georgian families outside the big cities, have heat in the form of a woof stove in the kitchen. It's quite toasty and cozy and I actually find I like it quite a bit. However, it does absolutely nothing for the rest of the house. So I have been spending more time than usual hanging out in the kitchen, working on my TEFL or reading or eating, while doing my best to ignore the Georgian TV that is the kitchen's constant companion, blasting at its usual 4756 decibels. But other than that (I actually went to put in earplugs the other day so I could work), I find I am weathering my Georgian winter quite cheerfully so far. I enjoy spending time with the fam, and the recent lack of internet means I haven't had much need for privacy during the day. At night, I bundle up in layers and long underwear and this really excellent wool hat that my Mom bought me at Plow and Hearth before I left. I think I may be acclimating. :)

But anyway, here's what I've been up to.  Abridged.

As I mentioned in my last post, I attended a funeral recently, the grandmother of our neighbors and family friend passed away.  It was, naturally, very sad, and I did feel slightly awkward as a funeral is generally not the place for tourism.  But while I did not know the lady herself, I had spent time with her family, and I was touched that they wanted me there, or at least accepted me into their ranks with typical flawless Georgian hospitality.  After we walked to the gravesite, I attended the funeral supra.

Crummy photo of the funeral supra.  The Tamada is standing up and giving a toast on the far side of the room.

In addition to my four Georgian weddings, I recently I also got to attend a "Second-Day Wedding," which is, near as I can tell, exactly like the actual wedding except this party takes place the afternoon following, is casual, is only for 150 guests instead of 300, and you start doing chacha shots at 1:30.

Bonding with the host Dad.

An intimate party of friends. :)

Modestly-sized drinking horn.

About a month ago Poti got three new volunteers, which brings our expat tally up to nine.  They are all very cool people and have incorporated nicely into our little group of misfits.  I hope to have at least a few more chances to hang out and get to know them before I leave... in a month!  Time here flies by so fast.

Mustafa and Julie with new volunteers Pauli and Arham.

Back when it was still warm enough, I took what will likely be my last bike ride out to Maltakqva. The beach and park were so beautiful and peaceful. I will miss this part of the world.

A little over a week ago, my host family made churchkhela which are strings of hazelnuts dipped in pelamushi, or a kind of sweet wine pudding.

And of course the expat shenanigans continue unabated.  Back before Mustafa went back to Turkey (SAD!), we passed a very enjoyable afternoon at a restaurant called Old House.

Possibly one of the very best photos I have ever taken.

I have absolutely no idea what I was doing.

Georgian Wine Goggles

Back at his apartment, Mustafa had a slight problem with his laptop...

We used the keys as poker chips.  Waste not...

I miss Mustafa and his roommates a lot; they were good people and damn if Mehmet could not cook an amazing dinner.  I hope I will get to see them all again soon.

Mehmet, Murat, Oscan, Mustafa

Finally, I know I have not done a book review in ages.  I've been having trouble finding something new that I can sink my teeth into.  Right now I am about two-thirds of the way through Let the Right One In, which I like but do not strictly love so far.  I feel it's worth a review though one way or another, so stay tuned.

It's not reading, but I have been listening to a lot of This American Life, a radio show on NPR that I'm sure most of you have already heard of.  (Ever the late adopter.)  My Mom loves the progam, and back before I left the States, I downloaded a whole bunch onto my iTunes.  I am normally not a fan of talk radio, but these shows are all immensely entertaining and go a long way to curbing both homsickness and boredom on internet-less evenings.

I'm really looking forward to making the most of my last days here in Poti.  The middle of December is going to come so fast!

32!

Another long hiatus.  I am not to blame this time however -- my family's internet has been down for almost two weeks, and I have decided I really dislike Four Side, the internet cafe where I usually go to post when such things happen.  But hopefully the Series of Tubes will stay clear of gambling chips and Ted Stevens long enough for me to get a little caught up.

First off... I had a birthday.  I generally am not the hugest fan of birthdays, mine in particular.  But this year I realized I actually could check off a goal or two in my life's bucket list so felt less awkward than usual about getting a year older.  And my birthday weekend was spectacular.

First of all, I need to give some very heartfelt thanks to my parents and my friend Matt, who managed to send me birthday cards from across the world.  And also to our wonderful family friends, Colleen and Allen, who also sent a card (with a generous present tucked inside!).  You cannot imagine the warm fuzzies you get when you've been electronically cut off from your friends and loved ones and suddenly here comes mail for you, in a town that doesn't even have mailboxes!  Please believe me when I say that each of you made my day.

This past Saturday, Mark, Julie and I marshutkaed into Zugdidi to go to Amerikidan, the American bar and grill we'd stopped into on our way to Svaneti.  The weather was utterly horrible -- rain and freezing rain and all around gray November chill.  But we bundled up and had an exceptionally fun afternoon.  James from our intake group joined us, as did several volunteers from the Zugdidi area.  Two of them, Blessing and Elaine, brought me a cake, complete with candle!!  I was so touched -- I definitely had not expected a cake, and the one they brought was delicious.

Awesome cake!

Expat crew minus James, who had taken off at that point.

 We all sat around and passed a very pleasant several hours, gorging on American-style pizza and cake, sipping cocktails and beer, until sadly the three Potiers had to take our leave to catch the last marshutka.  Which... we missed.  Oops.  But luck was still with us, and we were able to negotiate a very reasonable taxi fare back to Poti.  Heat and comfortable seats and a driver who will stop if I need to pee?  SO worth the 11 extra lari.  Back in Poti, the three of us hung out at Julie's for a bit, sipping on birthday mimosas and cognac (not at the same time.)

On Sunday, my actual birthday, I gave myself the present of sleeping until 1:30.  Puttered around not doing much in an internet-less world, then at 5:30 headed over with the family to their restaurant, where they were hosting a pizza party for me! :)  So awesome.  I invited all of the Poti expats, and everyone actually showed up which made me really happy.  So, more pizza and wine and a beautiful cake that my host Mom made.  Love!

... But, then I woke up on Monday with a truly terrible case of the flu, or something.  I will, of course, spare you the details, but I spent a really uncomfortable ten or so hours and twice had to talk my host family out of taking me to the hospital.  My family, particularly my host Mom, were truly fabulous to me on this day, offering medicine and comfort.  My host sister Nata even went to the store for me when I ran out of water.  Finally at around 7 PM, some sweet chalky mixture they gave me seemed to help, and that combined with the Borjomi mineral water I requested calmed my stomach so I stopped puking.  Ugh.  Needless to say, I did not go to school yesterday or today.  No emergency bathroom runs today though, so hopefully the worst is fully behind me.

All in all, I had a simply fantastic birthday weekend.  Thanks to every one of you, near and far, who helped to make it special.  Much love.

"The hits just keep on comin'."

Funny, but it always seemed to me like that line should be regarding a bad thing.  Like... "Take your hits and keep on rolling" or some such.  But certainly finding a suitcase full of money is unquestionably a good thing, especially when it follows some serious quality time with your brother involving rope and air ducts and coins and cool prayers.  I digress.  None of those things have happened to me sadly, (especially that suitcase full of money!), but I did receive some very excellent news yesterday from my Program.

My transfer request to Tbilisi has been approved.  When I return in January from my almost-a-month visiting Favorite People (and hedgehog!) in Okinawa, I will not need to then get on a six-hour marshutka or night train.  Because I will already be home.  In the Capital!!!

This of course means saying farewell to my current, quite excellent host family.  I will miss these folks.  Over the past six months they have been all that is kind and generous to me.  Because of them, I've been able to witness four Georgian weddings and one funeral (blog post on that in a bit), numerous local dance and music concerts, afternoons at various beaches, one very cool trip to Bakhmaro, and more supras than I can count.  I feel very fortunate to have been able to spend a part of my life here as an honorary member of the family.

But from Day One, the plan has always been to change locations halfway through this adventure.  The good fortune in scoring Tbilisi is a gigantic bonus, but even if Tbilisi hadn't been possible I would have asked for Telavi or Rustavi.  I feel that I have done a pretty okay job of exploring the western side of Georgia during these six months, but there is a whole half of a country I have yet to see.  Now I'll have six months to make time for adventures into Kakheti, Kazbegi, Khevsureti, Vardzia (with another trip into Borjomi as well), and maybe a trip down into Armenia or Azerbaijan.

Mine has sure turned into an interesting life.

I'm very glad I had the opportunity to experience a side of Georgian life and culture that never would have been possible in a big city.  But I am a city girl at heart, and I'd be lying if I said the idea of theatres, cinemas, western restaurants, museums, and Prospero's Freaking Books did not excite me a whole bunch.  Sheesh, I'm gonna go broke in five minutes if I don't watch myself.

Looking very forward to The Next Phase...